Hey everyone, if you’re in the fabric game—whether you’re a small fashion designer, a costume shop owner, or someone who’s stocked up on spandex velvet for upcoming projects—you know there’s nothing worse than pulling out a bolt of that soft, luxe stuff months later only to find it’s got creases that won’t budge, weird discoloration, or that fuzzy pile all matted down. As a spandex velvet fabric supplier, I’ve seen it all: customers complaining their inventory turned into a crumpled mess, or they tried to store it in their garage and it got covered in dust that was impossible to brush out. Today I’m breaking down exactly how to store spandex velvet the right way, from the second you get it delivered to the day you cut into it. No fancy jargon, just real tips I’ve picked up from working with this stuff for years. Spandex Velvet Fabric
First off, let’s get one thing straight: spandex velvet is not your average cotton broadcloth. It’s that stretchy, drapey velvet that has a core made of spandex (usually 5-10% spandex, mixed with polyester or nylon for the pile) which is why it’s so popular for workout wear, activewear, stretchy formal gowns, or even custom costume pieces. That spandex component is also what makes it tricky to store if you don’t know what you’re doing—heat, direct sunlight, and tight pressure are its sworn enemies, way more than your regular woven fabrics. I’ve had a customer come to me once who stored a bunch of spandex velvet in a plastic bin under a window, and by the end of the summer, the pile on the side facing the sun was faded to a weird grayish tint and lost all its stretch. Total waste, right? So let’s start with the basics of pre-storage prep, because if you skip that step, no amount of smart storage will save your fabric.
When your spandex velvet arrives at your studio or warehouse, resist the urge to just yank it off the shipping roll and toss it somewhere. First thing: inspect it right away. Check for any loose threads, stains from the shipping process, or defects that were hidden during quality control (though we make sure our stuff is good to go before it leaves our facility, accidents happen). If you do spot a stain, don’t try to scrub it right away—spandex velvet’s pile is delicate, and harsh cleaners can pull the fibers or cause discoloration. Wait to clean it until you’re ready to use it, or if it’s a big stain, send it to a professional cleaner who knows how to handle stretch fabrics. Also, never iron a bolt of spandex velvet before storing it—ironing will flatten the pile permanently, and trust me, you don’t want to have to steam a whole bolt later.
Now, how to actually hold the fabric? Most spandex velvet comes on a paper or plastic core, rolled loosely, which is perfect for storage. Don’t unroll it! Rolling it loosely keeps the pile from getting crushed and maintains the fabric’s natural stretch—if you fold it, especially heavy folds for long periods, those creases will become set in the fiber, and you’ll be steaming for hours just to get them out. I learned this the hard way early on: a new customer ordered 50 yards of deep forest green spandex velvet for a line of yoga leggings, and instead of rolling it back up, I folded it to fit in my car’s trunk to deliver it, and by the time I got to their shop, there were huge fold lines across the whole bolt that took three hours of steaming to fix. Save yourself the trouble—keep it rolled.
But not just any roll. What you wrap it in is way more important than you think. Never store spandex velvet in plastic. Plastic traps moisture, even if it looks airtight, and that can lead to mold or mildew growth—especially if you’re storing it in a damp basement or a garage that’s not climate-controlled. I’ve had a customer’s warehouse flood a little a couple years back, and the spandex velvet stored in plastic bins had mold spots that were impossible to remove, while the same fabric rolled up in cotton sheets only had a tiny bit of moisture on the outside that wiped right off. So skip the plastic grocery bags, the heavy-duty storage bins, even the plastic wrap that might have been on the shipping roll. Instead, use breathable materials: plain cotton sheets, cotton fabric rolls, or even unbleached muslin. Muslin is great because it’s thin, doesn’t leave fuzz on your velvet, and keeps dust out without trapping moisture.
If you’re storing multiple bolts of spandex velvet, don’t stack them on top of each other like you would paper towels. The weight of the upper bolts will crush the pile of the ones below, especially the soft, high-pile spandex velvet we carry for formalwear. The best way is to hang them up, if you have the space. I installed heavy-duty metal hangers in my warehouse that are made for holding fabric rolls—they’re strong, don’t bend, and keep each bolt suspended so there’s no pressure on the pile. If you don’t have space for hanging, lay them on a high shelf, not the floor. Floors get dusty, damp, and sometimes even leak water if you have pipes above or below, and high shelves are away from sunlight too. When laying them on shelves, make sure they’re spaced out a little bit, not pressed tightly against other fabrics, so air can circulate around them.
Now, what about the environment of where you’re storing this stuff? Spandex velvet hates extreme temperatures and humidity. Aim for a storage spot that’s between 60-75°F (15-24°C) and humidity under 65%. If you’re storing fabric in a dry climate, you might even want to use a tiny humidifier or a bowl of water in the room to keep it from getting too brittle—wait, is that a thing? Yeah, I’ve seen spandex velvet get so dry in the middle of winter in places like Arizona that the pile was static-y and would stick to everything, which made cutting it a nightmare. On the flip side, if you live somewhere super humid, use a dehumidifier to keep mold at bay. Avoid storing it near radiators, heaters, or windows that get direct sunlight—sunlight fades the dye really fast, and heat breaks down the spandex fibers over time, making the fabric less stretchy and more prone to tearing. I’ve had a designer tell me she stored her spandex velvet near a window in her apartment studio, and after two months, the red bolt was pink in patches and the stretch was gone. Don’t do that, trust me.
What about common mistakes people make that I see all the time? Let’s list a few. First, not cleaning the storage spot before putting fabric in it. If you’re moving a shelf that’s been dusty for months, wiping it down with a damp cloth (make sure it’s dry before you put fabric on it!) will keep dust off your velvet. Dust can get trapped in the pile and be almost impossible to remove without a lint roller that’s specifically for velvet—regular lint rollers leave sticky residue. Second, using mothballs or cedar blocks. Wait, mothballs have that strong chemical smell that will get absorbed into spandex velvet, and cedar blocks can leave stains or that same strong scent that will make your fabric unworkable. If you have a moth problem in your storage area, use cedar chips in a cotton bag, not directly on the fabric, and keep them far away so they don’t touch the velvet. Third, storing it with fabric that sheds. Like, if you have a bolt of fuzzy fleece next to your spandex velvet, the fleece fuzz will stick to the velvet pile and be a pain to get off, even with a steamer. Keep different fabrics separate, or wrap each bolt individually in that muslin I mentioned earlier.
Wait, what if you already have some spandex velvet that’s got creases? Don’t panic, that’s fixable. If it’s a fresh crease from being folded or packed, hang it up in a bathroom where you’re taking a hot shower—the steam will loosen the creases in a few hours, and the pile will fluff back up. Don’t use a regular iron on creases, that will flatten the pile. If you need more precision, use a steamer, holding it about 6-8 inches away from the fabric, so the steam penetrates the pile without touching the iron. Let it air dry hanging up, and it’ll be good as new.
Now, I know a lot of small business owners or hobbyists might not have a big warehouse with heavy fabric hangers. What if you’re storing fabric in a small apartment or a home studio? No problem, I’ve got tips for you too. If you don’t have space to hang it, roll it up tightly (but not too tight—still leave a little give) and store it in a large, breathable canvas tote, not plastic bins. Keep the tote in a closet, on a high shelf, away from the heat of a dryer or heater vent. If you need to move it around, the tote protects it from dust and keeps the roll intact, no creases. Another trick: if you only have a yard or two of spandex velvet, fold it loosely (only fold it once, not multiple times!) and place it in a drawer lined with tissue paper, not plastic. The tissue paper keeps it soft and prevents it from rubbing against other clothes.
As your go-to spandex velvet fabric supplier, I can’t stress enough how storing this stuff right saves you time and money. We have so many customers who come back to reorder because their stock lasts, and the ones who skip the storage tips? They have to throw away fabric that’s ruined, which is a huge cost for small businesses. Remember the key points: keep it rolled, not folded; use breathable wrapping, no plastic; avoid sunlight, heat, and too much humidity; and don’t stack heavy stuff on top of it.
If you’ve got more questions about storing spandex velvet, or you need high-quality fabric for your next project, feel free to reach out and chat. We’re always here to help with tips and supply whatever you need, from small quantities for indie designers to bulk orders for larger brands. Don’t let bad storage ruin your fabric—follow these tips, and your spandex velvet will look as good as the day you bought it for months, even years, down the line.
Velvet Fabric References
Textile Institute. (2021). Storage and Care of Stretch Fabrics. Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management.
American Cleaning Institute. (2022). Proper Handling and Storage of Delicate Performance Fabrics.
Shaoxing Haoman Textile Co., Ltd.
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